Saturday, June 12

Plans for an End Table Knock-Off

This will probably be my final plan from my favorite PB collection. It's the end table that matches the coffee & console tables I've made plans for already. I love how these pieces combine hidden storage & open shelving, and I love the clean modern lines (especially combined with a traditional finish). And I totally dig those ring pulls. I probably spend more on them than I should, but they really make the piece!
A word of warning though, like the console table I haven't actually built this yet and so I don't make any guarantees. I'm just getting my plans in order before I get started. Now, down to business! These plans are actually slightly different from the dimensions of the inspiration table, but they use standard lumber sizes. This is built in essentially the same manner as the coffee table with a few changes, so I will refer you to those plans for some of the details. Once I build it myself I'll let you know if it all works out. Or if you build it first, please let me know! :)

Please read all the directions before beginning, and cut your pieces as you go, measuring before each cut. Use 2” screws unless otherwise indicated. Always use glue. Pre-drill and countersink your screws. And don’t forget to check out Knock-Off Wood for more tips!

Here are the dimension. Like I said they are a little different than the PB version, but it uses standard lumber sizes.

Shopping List:
3 2x2 @ 10’
2 1x10 @ 10’
1 1x2 @ 8'
1 1x12 @ 6’ OR a few scrap pieces
2 1x6 @ 8'
1 1x5 @ 6'
Several small L-Brackets OR Scrap wood
2 Sets of Drawer Glides

2” screws
1 ¼” screws
Wood glue
Wood filler
Finishing Supplies
Kreg Jig would be handy-dandy

Cut List:
A) 4 2x2 @ 26" (legs)
B) 12 2x2 @ 18 1/2" (rails)
C) ½” strips of scrap wood OR several small metal L-Brackets (shelf supports)
D) 6 1x10 @ 18 1/2" (shelves)
E) 1 1x2 @ 18 1/2" (stile, mounted horizontally)
F) 6 1x10 @ 12 1/4" (side panels)
G) 4 1x2 @ 18 1/2" (drawer support)
H) 2 1x12 @ 19 1/4" (drawer bottom)
I) 2 1x5 @ 19 1/4" (drawer bottom)
J) 4 1x6 @ 19 1/4" (drawer sides)
K) 2 1x6 @ 17 1/4" (drawer backs)
L) 2 1x6 @ 18 1/4" (drawer fronts)

Before we get started, the shelves & side panels on this table are going to be two 1x10s side by side (shown above). The combined width of the 2 boards should be 18 1/2" (9 1/4" per board). You should measure first to make sure this is the size of your boards, and if it's not adjust the plans accordingly. Got it? Okay, let's begin!

Step 1:
Attach rails (B) to the legs (A) to form 2 sides of the table as shown above. The first rail should be flush with the top of the legs, then leave 7 1/4" before the middle rail, then 12 1/4" before the bottom rail. This should leave 2" below the bottom rail. Be careful when you screw through the legs into the rails so you don't split the wood. If you have a Kreg Jig, use that instead and you shouldn't have any problems.

Step 2:
Now attach the rest of the rails (B) between the side pieces as shown above, carefully screwing through the legs into the rails. Be careful not to hit the screws you used to attach the first rails.

Step 3:
Now install the bottom shelf. For directions on creating the supports (C) for this shelf (and the following shelves) refer to step #5 of this post. If you have a kreg jig you can attach the two shelf boards together (D), otherwise just set them in place separately.

Step 4:
Attach the stile (E) between the legs on the front of the table (since all the sides are the same size, you can just pick one to be the front!). The stile will be centered between the bottom & middle stiles, leaving 5 3/4" above & below the stile.

Step 5:
Next install the side panels (F) between the bottom & middle rails. If you have a Kreg Jig, attach the pair of boards for each side together, otherwise set them individually. Set panels flush with outside edges of the table and screw through legs and rails to attach. Do this for the 3 sides of the table that don't have a stile.

Step 6:
Put in some supports (G) for the drawer glides to attach to. You'll need a set for each drawer, and they need to be installed at the proper height for you type of glides. An example is shown above.

Step 7:
Install the next shelf (D) like you did the first. You may want to go ahead and build the drawers & install the glides before installing the shelf so you can get to the supports more easily.

Step 8:
Install the top shelf (D) like the first two shelves.

Step 9:
To start the drawers, attach the 1x12 & 1x5 together as shown above to create the drawer bottom (H & I). Use a Kreg Jig if you have one, if not I would glue them together and let the rest of the drawer box hold them together.

Step 10:
Attach the drawer sides (J) as shown above. Screw through the sides, into the drawer bottom. Keep edges flush.

Step 11:
Attach the drawer back (K) as shown above. Screw through the back, into the drawer bottom & sides. Keep edges flush.

Step 12:
Attach the drawer front as shown above (L), keeping top & bottom edges flush. There will be a 1/2" overhang on each side to accommodate the drawer glides. Screw through the front, into the bottom & sides.

Step 13:
Insert drawers and you are done with the construction!

Step 14:
Fill all your holes, sand, finish.

Our first finished end table was submitted by Tim - He used an oiled walnut finish with a solid walnut frame and walnut veneer on the sides, door, and top. He swapped out the drawers in favor of door. He used a Kreg Jig for all the construction (check out the second pic for and inside peek at his pocket hole construction) and says that he didn't need any extra supports for the shelves because the Kreg Jig system is strong enough on it's own! Thanks so much Tim, your work is beautiful!

Enjoy! And be sure to check out Knock-Off Wood.


  1. Do you prefer to edge join wood over using plywood?

  2. I drive a sunfire, so plywood just really isn't a good option for me because I can't get it home! That is the only reason I did the plans this way. :)

  3. It's more than 4 years since these plans were posted. But, for what it's worth, I think there are a couple of errors in the cut list.
    1) The cut list has the side panels at 18 1/2" long - The plan would indicate they should be cut to 12 1/4"
    2) The cut list has the drawer front/back sides as being 1X5s. From the plan's frame dimensions, it looks like they should be 1X6s (for a 1/8" gap to the cabinet's frame at the drawer top and bottom).

  4. I built this end table with a modification. We wanted it to include an enclosed cabinet with a door instead of two drawers. The table came out nice and the plans were great! It's oiled walnut with a solid walnut frame and walnut veneer sides and shelves. I used a Kreg jig for all joints. I'd post a picture but this reply won't seem to let me.
    P.S. I was the anonymous post above suggesting some plan mods.
    --- Tim

    1. It sounds great! I'd love to see it. I don't think it's possible to post pictures in the comments, but you're welcome to share some on the More Like Home facebook page ( or by emailing me directly at morelikehome (at) gmail (dot) com. I can add one or two to the the end of the plans if you don't mind! :)

  5. This is a great design and I'm looking forward to tackling the coffee table/end table set over the upcoming holidays. However I discovered some of your measurements are off. Off the start, if the total height of the end table is to be 26", then something needs to change with the shelving measurements. Your numbers had 3 tiers of 2" rails (6" total) with 7.25" for the top shelf, and 12.25" for the bottom shelf, all the while leaving 2" space from the floor. 6+7.25+12.25+2=27.5". We'd need to shave 1.5" from either the top or the bottom shelf. Easiest solution: shrink the bottom shelf from 12.25" to 10.75". Or else make a thin top drawer of 5.75". I think it would be a preference call here.

    1. Oh, and I forgot to add, your total width is off an inch. 2x 2" legs + an 18.5" rail would be 22.5", not 21.5". Cheers!

    2. Dimensional lumber is weird. 2x2s are actually only 1.5 x 1.5" so the width would be 18.5 + 1.5 + 1.5 = 21.5. Same goes for the other measurements you listed. It's confusing at first! This site has a handy chart that lists the actual sizes of most boards (although I just noticed they didn't include 2x2s in the list)
      Happy building! :)

    3. Aaahhh! Please forgive my ignorance! I had no idea the sizes weren't true. I'll need to pay attention to that when modifying plans. Thanks for the heads up!

    4. Don't worry about it! I made that mistake a few times myself when I started building. :)