This will probably be my final plan from my favorite PB collection. It's the end table that matches the coffee & console tables I've made plans for already. I love how these pieces combine hidden storage & open shelving, and I love the clean modern lines (especially combined with a traditional finish). And I totally dig those ring pulls. I probably spend more on them than I should, but they really make the piece!
Please read all the directions before beginning, and cut your pieces as you go, measuring before each cut. Use 2” screws unless otherwise indicated. Always use glue. Pre-drill and countersink your screws. And don’t forget to check out Knock-Off Wood for more tips!
Here are the dimension. Like I said they are a little different than the PB version, but it uses standard lumber sizes.
3 2x2 @ 10’
2 1x10 @ 10’
1 1x2 @ 8'
1 1x12 @ 6’ OR a few scrap pieces
2 1x6 @ 8'
1 1x5 @ 6'
Several small L-Brackets OR Scrap wood
2 Sets of Drawer Glides
1 ¼” screws
Kreg Jig would be handy-dandy
A) 4 2x2 @ 26" (legs)
B) 12 2x2 @ 18 1/2" (rails)
C) ½” strips of scrap wood OR several small metal L-Brackets (shelf supports)
D) 6 1x10 @ 18 1/2" (shelves)
E) 1 1x2 @ 18 1/2" (stile, mounted horizontally)
F) 6 1x10 @ 12 1/4" (side panels)
G) 4 1x2 @ 18 1/2" (drawer support)
H) 2 1x12 @ 19 1/4" (drawer bottom)
I) 2 1x5 @ 19 1/4" (drawer bottom)
J) 4 1x6 @ 19 1/4" (drawer sides)
K) 2 1x6 @ 17 1/4" (drawer backs)
L) 2 1x6 @ 18 1/4" (drawer fronts)
Before we get started, the shelves & side panels on this table are going to be two 1x10s side by side (shown above). The combined width of the 2 boards should be 18 1/2" (9 1/4" per board). You should measure first to make sure this is the size of your boards, and if it's not adjust the plans accordingly. Got it? Okay, let's begin!
Attach rails (B) to the legs (A) to form 2 sides of the table as shown above. The first rail should be flush with the top of the legs, then leave 7 1/4" before the middle rail, then 12 1/4" before the bottom rail. This should leave 2" below the bottom rail. Be careful when you screw through the legs into the rails so you don't split the wood. If you have a Kreg Jig, use that instead and you shouldn't have any problems.
Now attach the rest of the rails (B) between the side pieces as shown above, carefully screwing through the legs into the rails. Be careful not to hit the screws you used to attach the first rails.
Now install the bottom shelf. For directions on creating the supports (C) for this shelf (and the following shelves) refer to step #5 of this post. If you have a kreg jig you can attach the two shelf boards together (D), otherwise just set them in place separately.
Attach the stile (E) between the legs on the front of the table (since all the sides are the same size, you can just pick one to be the front!). The stile will be centered between the bottom & middle stiles, leaving 5 3/4" above & below the stile.
Next install the side panels (F) between the bottom & middle rails. If you have a Kreg Jig, attach the pair of boards for each side together, otherwise set them individually. Set panels flush with outside edges of the table and screw through legs and rails to attach. Do this for the 3 sides of the table that don't have a stile.
Put in some supports (G) for the drawer glides to attach to. You'll need a set for each drawer, and they need to be installed at the proper height for you type of glides. An example is shown above.
Install the next shelf (D) like you did the first. You may want to go ahead and build the drawers & install the glides before installing the shelf so you can get to the supports more easily.
Install the top shelf (D) like the first two shelves.
To start the drawers, attach the 1x12 & 1x5 together as shown above to create the drawer bottom (H & I). Use a Kreg Jig if you have one, if not I would glue them together and let the rest of the drawer box hold them together.
Attach the drawer sides (J) as shown above. Screw through the sides, into the drawer bottom. Keep edges flush.
Attach the drawer back (K) as shown above. Screw through the back, into the drawer bottom & sides. Keep edges flush.
Attach the drawer front as shown above (L), keeping top & bottom edges flush. There will be a 1/2" overhang on each side to accommodate the drawer glides. Screw through the front, into the bottom & sides.
Insert drawers and you are done with the construction!
Fill all your holes, sand, finish.
Our first finished end table was submitted by Tim - He used an oiled walnut finish with a solid walnut frame and walnut veneer on the sides, door, and top. He swapped out the drawers in favor of door. He used a Kreg Jig for all the construction (check out the second pic for and inside peek at his pocket hole construction) and says that he didn't need any extra supports for the shelves because the Kreg Jig system is strong enough on it's own! Thanks so much Tim, your work is beautiful!
Enjoy! And be sure to check out Knock-Off Wood.