It has baskets to corral our shoes, a wide drawer for the diaper bag & shopping bags, and the table top is a great place to drop keys and mail when we come in. Not to mention it also serves as an end table by the couch. For a little guy, he sure is a hard worker!
Don't need an entry table? This guy would also be great as a console or buffet table. Stash some toys in the baskets or stack throw blankets on the shelf. It's small enough to tuck out of the way but still offers some nice storage.
Want to build your own? Well you're in luck! Full plans are below!
4 - 2x2 @ 8' long
1 - 1x3 @ 10' long
1 - 1x10 @ 10' long
1 - 1x2 @ 2' long (4' may be the shortest available, or use a couple 1' scrap pieces)
1 - 1x8 @ 6' long
1 - 1x4 @ 12' long
1 set of 12" drawer slides
2 drawer pulls
2 baskets like these or a similar size
1 1/4” screws (or Kreg Jig & 1 1/4" self tapping screws)
2" screws (or Kreg Jig &1 1/4" self tapping screws)
1 1/4" finishing nails
wood glueFinishing supplies (wood filler, sandpaper, paint, etc.)
**optional: Kreg Jig - you can definitely complete this project without one, but it would be really helpful to have here. You'll have a lot of holes to fill on the outside using regular screws, and a Kreg would allow you to hide almost all of them on the inside instead!**
(A) 4 - 2x2 @ 29 1/4" (legs)
(B) 6 - 2x2 @ 11" (side rails)
(C) 2 - 1x10 @ 11" (sides)
(D) 2 - 1x3 @ 11" (drawer supports)
(E) 6 - 2x2 @ 26 1/2" (front/back rails)
(F) 1 - 1x10 @ 26 1/2" (back)
(G) 7 - 1x3 @ 11" (shelf slats)
(H) 2 - 1x2 @ 11" (optional shelf sides)
(I) 1 - 2x2 @ 11" (top support)
(J) 4 - 1x4 @ 29 1/2" (top)
(K) 1 - 1x10 @ 24" (drawer bottom)
(L) 2 - 1x8 @ 24" (drawer front/back)
(M) 2 - 1x8 @ 10 3/4" (drawer sides)
(N) 1 - 1x10 @ 26 1/4" (drawer front)
Dimensions: 29 1/2" wide x 30" tall x 14" deep
Please read all the directions before beginning, and cut your pieces as you go, measuring before each cut. Use 2” screws or pocket holes with 1 1/4" screws unless otherwise indicated. Always use glue. Pre-drill and countersink your screws. Check for square as you go. Measure lots to make sure everything works out!
Start by using one of the side rail boards (B) to connect two of the legs (A). The side rail should be flush with the top of the legs as shown below. You can attach it using a Kreg Jig & pocket hole screws, or by drilling through the legs into the ends of the side rail. Use glue.
Next install the side board (C). This should sit right up against the bottom edge of the side rail you just installed. The side board should be flush with the outside face of the legs and side rail, which means it will be inset about 3/4" on the inside. You can attach it using a Kreg Jig & pocket hole screws, or by drilling through the legs into the ends of the side board.
I finally have action shots of building something! You can see how I used pocket holes to attach the side board here:
Now you can install two more side rails (B). The first goes right below the side board. The second is spaced down 13 1/2" below the first, which leaves 2" of space below. Make sure you keep them flush with the sides of the legs. You can attach them using a Kreg Jig & pocket hole screws, or by drilling through the legs into the ends of the side rails. Don't forget the glue. :)
Now install one of the drawer slide supports (D). It sits in the inset space of the side board, right above the center side rail. Attach it using 1" screws or finishing nails and glue. This completes the first side section, repeat all this to build the other side.
Once both sides are complete you can connect them. Start by installing the back top rail (E). It should sit flush with the top and outside edges of the legs. You can attach it using a Kreg Jig & pocket hole screws, or by drilling through the legs into the ends of the back rail.
Next install the back board (F). It should sit flush against the bottom edge of the top rail, and flush with the back face of the rail and legs (so it will be inset about 3/4" on the inside). You can attach it using a Kreg Jig & pocket hole screws, or by drilling through the legs and top rail into the ends of the back board.
Now install two more back rails. The first should be flush against the bottom edge of the back board, and the second should be set down 13 1/2" with a 2" space below. You can attach them using a Kreg Jig & pocket hole screws, or by drilling through the legs into the ends of the back rails.
Next install the three front rails (E). The first should be flush with the top of the legs. The second should be spaced down 9 1/2" (it will sit 1/4" lower than the side rails but isn't noticeable when the piece is done. the extra 1/4" will leave enough room for the drawer front to fit properly.). The third rail should be spaced 13 1/4" below the second and leave 2" below (it should be lined up with the bottom rails on the sides). You can attach them using a Kreg Jig & pocket hole screws, or by drilling through the legs into the ends of the front rails.
Here is my table at this point. If you look closely you can see the pocket holes inside. And no holes on the outside to fill! Yay!
Then install the shelf slats (G) between the front & back bottom rails. The tops of the slats should be flush with the tops of the rails. Starting at one side, install the first slat flush against the side rail. Work your way across leaving a 1 1/2" gap between each slat. The last one should sit flush against the other side rail. You can attach them using a Kreg Jig & pocket hole screws on the bottom side, or by drilling through the front & back rails into the ends of the slats.
Next is an optional step. If you want you can install shelf sides (H) as shown below. They will help your baskets slide straight without getting hung up on the legs. If you want a cleaner look you can leave them off.
Now install the top support (I). This should be roughly centered across the opening with about 12 1/2" of space on either side, but really you can just eyeball it. :) You can attach it using a Kreg Jig & pocket hole screws, or by drilling through the front & back rails into the ends of the support.
Then install the top (J). The four boards sit side by side and should be flush around all the edges. Attach them using finishing nails and glue. Nail into both the side rails and the support board.
Now you can build the drawer box. Start measuring your drawer opening, between the drawer slide support boards. You want your drawer box to be exactly 1" less than this measurement, so adjust your measurements accordingly as necessary. To build the box, start by attaching the drawer front & back boards (L) to the the drawer bottom (K) as shown below. You can attach them using a Kreg Jig & pocket hole screws on the bottom side, or by drilling through the front & back boards into the edges of the drawer bottom.
Then attach the drawer sides (M). You can attach them using a Kreg Jig & pocket hole screws, or by drilling through the side boards into the drawer bottom and front/back boards.
Now you can attach the drawer slides and install the drawer box. Follow the instructions with your slides to install them. You want to make sure your drawer box sits back 3/4" from the front face of the legs **these plans are for slides that require 1/2" of space on either side. You'll need to adjust your measurements if your slides have different requirements. If you want more room to work on instaling the slides, you could wait and install the top after the drawer is in place.**
Since we're using 12" slides, they will stick past the back of the drawer a bit like in the picture below. It's okay, and will actually let the drawer open a bit farther than it would otherwise.
Once the box is installed you can attach the drawer front. With the box in place, center the drawer front in the drawer opening with a 1/8" gap all around. Attach it to the drawer box using finishing nails and glue.
All that's left is finishing! Start by filling any holes and sanding everything nice and smooth. Then just finish it off with whatever paint or stain & poly you like! I used a coat of primer and two coats of white semi-gloss paint.
Then just add some hardware and a couple baskets. You're done!
Slide it into place by the front door and bask in the tidy organization.
Of course a few accessories don't hurt....
So much tidier than the piles of shoes we had before!
And I love the contrast of the natural fiber baskets against the white table.
And now to answer the burning question.... how much did it cost?
$45 - wood
$7 - slides (ordered from Amazon)
$11 - hardware (from Menards)
$0 - paint (left over from our kitchen)
$0 - screws, glue, etc. (free because we had them left over from other projects!)
$30 - baskets
And for the other burning question... where was B?!
Running around on the patio during construction. And then when I was taking pictures he kept jumping in saying "Take picture! You!" He refers to himself as "you."
And then after every picture "You! See it!" so he could check my work.
And then he insisted on pictures with big red ball. And what mama could say no?
And my favorite part - the boy LOVES when I get the tripod out because I let him push the button all by himself to take pictures of mama. A fun time was had by all. And now I feel all sentimental because baby A was still just a bump. :)
What's your favorite way to keep your entryway tidy?