Ready for day 29? You can see links to the complete series here. In this series, we're seeing what we can make out of 2x4s. I want to keep it cheap, keep it easy, and keep it totally doable for anyone. Today's project is one for the bathroom - it's an Open Storage Vanity!
Designed for the bathroom, you can use the wood top as drawn or get a standard vanity top to fit. There is plenty of room underneath for towels or big baskets. It would also make a great console table! Let's get started....
Shopping List:7 - 2x4s @ 10' long
1 - 2x4 @ 8' long
2 1/2” screws (or Kreg Jig & 2 1/2" self tapping screws)
4" screws (or Kreg Jig & 2 1/2" self tapping screws)
2x4 Cut List:
(A) - 4 @ 33" (legs)
(B) - 8 @ 13 1/2" (sides)
(C) - 6 @ 36" (shelf)
(D) - 4 @ 36" (front/back)
(E) - 2 @ 17 1/2" (supports)
(F) - 5 @ 36" (top)
Dimensions: 39" wide x 33" tall x 20 1/2" deep
Please read all the directions before beginning, and cut your pieces as you go, measuring before each cut. Use 2 1/2” screws or pocket holes with 2 1/2" screws unless otherwise indicated. Always use glue. Pre-drill and countersink your screws. I have not built from these exact plans, so measure lots to make sure things work out!
Step 1: Build the Sides
Use four side pieces (B) to connect two legs (A) as shown below. The first two should be flush against the top of the legs with no space between the two. The third board should be 7 1/2" down from there, and the last one 7 1/2" down from the third with 4" of space left underneath.Everything should be flush across the outside edges. Attach them using a Kreg Jig or by drilling through the legs into each side board with 4" screws. Use glue. Repeat to build the other side.
Step 2: The Shelf
Attach the first shelf board (C) vertically across the back of the vanity. It should be flush with the back side of the legs, and set up 4" off the floor. Attach it using a Kreg Jig or by drilling through the legs into the shelf board with 2 1/2" screws and glue.
Now attach the remaining shelf boards (C) side-by-side in front of the board you just installed. (Putting that first board vertically will create a lip on the back of your shelf to keep things from slipping off the back.) The shelf boards should be 4" up off the floor and the bottom edges should be even with the bottom of the lowest side board. Attach using a Kreg Jig or by drilling through the legs and side boards into each shelf board with 2 1/2" screws. Use glue.
Step 3: The Top
Use the front/back boards (D) to connect the top of the leg sections. Use two each in front and back, keeping them flush across the top and outside edges. Attach them using a Kreg Jig or by drilling through the legs into each front/back board with 2 1/2" screws. Use glue.
Now install the two support boards (E). If you are putting a sink in your vaniy, be sure you space the supports far enough apart that they won't interfere. If you widen the vanity or put in two sinks, you'll need to use three or more supports, making sure you have at least between the two sinks. If you are using the wood top as this is drawn, you need to set the supports down 1 1/2" from the top edge of the vanity. If you are buying a vanity top to install, it will sit on top of the vanity so your supports will need to be up flush with the top edge of the vanity. Once you decide where your supports will go, attach them using a Kreg Jig or by drilling through the front/back boards into the supports with 2 1/2" screws. Use glue.
Now install the top boards (F). They should sit inside the frame of the vanity and rest on top of the supports. The top should be flush with the top of the frame. Attach them by drilling through the sides into each board with 2 1/2" screws and glue, and by drilling down through the top boards into the supports with 2 1/2" screws and glue. (If you're using a store-bought vanity top, it will sit on top of the frame and you will not need these top boards)
Step 4: Finishing
If you are installing a sink, start by using the sink template to cut out a hole for the sink and faucets if necessary. Then fill any screw holes and sand everything smooth. Now you can finish with any paint or stain you like! If you will be using this in the bathroom (or anywhere wet) make sure you get everything nice and sealed up with paint or polyurethane. This would look great in a rustic finish with clean white towels stored underneath.
Or give it a coat of white paint and stick a couple big, textured baskets underneath. Once your table is finished, install your fixtures according to the manufacturer instructions.
Project 2x4 Cost:
$22.40 - 7 2x4s @ 10' long ($3.20 each)
$2.50 - 1 2x4 @ 8' long ($2.50 each)
See giveaway winners here.
I Did It!
From Serena via Facebook: "
Jeff is modifying it to make a changing table. Looking great, Jeff! Thanks for sharing!
Dan built this to hold his wintering plants. And he says it's strong enough you could dance on it! Thanks for sharing and happy dancing, Dan!
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