Thursday, October 18

Day 18 - Build a Homestead Dining Table

Welcome to day 18! You can see links to the complete series here, and enter my Lowe's gift card giveaway here. In this series, we're seeing what we can make out of 2x4s. I want to keep it cheap, keep it easy, and keep it totally doable for anyone. Today's project is one of the biggest we'll tackle this month - the Homestead Dining Table.

This table is big enough for the whole family (and then some!). Perfect for family dinners, spreading out homework, or working on your favorite craft. Or if you're taking the homesteading approach (check out my Homestead Shelves here), you'll have plenty of room for canning veggies or preserving fruits. Ready to build a table?

Shopping List:
6  -  2x4s @ 10' long
11  -  2x4  @ 8' long

2 1/2” screws (or Kreg Jig & 2 1/2" self tapping screws)
4" screws (or Kreg Jig & 2 1/2" self tapping screws)
Wood glue
Wood filler

2x4 Cut List:
(A) - 2  @  89" (front/back supports)
(B) - 2  @  31"  (side supports)
(C) - 4  @  28"  (middle supports)
(D) - 8  @  28 1/2"  (legs)
(E) - 2  @  28"  (bottom supports)
(F) - 1  @  83"  (stretcher)
(G) - 10  @  96"  (table top) - use an 8' long board for each of these and you don't need to do any cutting!

Dimensions: 96" wide x 30" tall x 35" deep

Please read all the directions before beginning, and cut your pieces as you go, measuring before each cut. Use 2 1/2” screws or pocket holes with 2 1/2" screws unless otherwise indicated. Always use glue. Pre-drill and countersink your screws. I have not built from these exact plans, so measure lots to make sure things work out!

Step 1: Frame the Top
Start by using the front & back supports (A) to connect the side supports (B) as shown below. Attach them using a Kreg Jig & 2 1/2" pocket screws, or by drilling through the side supports into the front & back supports with 2 1/2" screws. Use glue.

Now attach the four center support boards (C) as shown below. Space them 16 1/2 - 17" apart. Attach them using a Kreg Jig, or by drilling through the front & back boards into the center supports with 2 1/2" screws and glue.

Step 2: The Legs
Next attach one of the legs (D) in each corner of the frame you just built. You want the top of the legs to be flush with the top of the frame. Attach them by drilling through the legs and into the the side supports with 2 1/2" screws and glue. You probably also want to drill through the side, front, and back supports into each leg as well. You want this as secure as you can get it!

Now you can attach a bottom support (E) at each end of the table to connect the legs. The support should be 3" off the floor and flush with the outside edges of the legs. Attach it by drilling through the support into the legs with 2 1/2" screws and glue.

Now you can add another leg in each corner (this is mostly just for looks, but will make your table a little sturdier as well). This leg will sandwich the bottom support and be flush against the front/back boards. Attach these legs by drilling through the legs into the bottom supports, and by drilling through the front/back supports into the legs. Use 2 1/2" screws and glue.

Step 3: The Stretcher
Now attach the stretcher (F) between the bottom support boards. You want to center it on the bottom support boards with 13 1/4" on each side. Attach it by drilling through the bottom support boards into the ends of the stretcher with 2 1/2" screws and glue.

Step 4: The Top
Now you can attach the top boards (G). If you have a Kreg Jig you can start by attaching them all together side by side, but if not it's ok! Lay the top board on your table frame side-by-side and center them on the frame with a 2" overhang on all sides. Drill down through each top board into the supports below with 2 1/2" screws and glue. (If you have a Kreg Jig you could attach the top board from underneath if you put the pocket holes in the side, front, back, and center supports)

Step 5: Finishing
Start by filling all your holes and sanding everything down nice and smooth. Now you can finish with your favorite paint, stain, or polyurethane. Try a rustic wood or antique paint finish for a charming look, or a nice crisp white to lighten up the mood in your dining room. Have fun and be creative!

Project 2x4 Cost:
$19.20  -  6   2x4s @ 10' long ($3.20 each)
$27.50  -  11   2x4 @ 8' long ($2.50 each)
$46.70 Total

See giveaway winners here.

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Day 17 31 Days of 2x4 Projects - Full List Day 19


  1. Are the chairs tomorrow?

  2. My kids can be hard on tables. I think this one could take what they dish out.

  3. This would be perfect to make for my covered deck and I could make it the length that I need!

  4. I agree with others, this table looks like it can withstand my boys and look great in a covered patio. Love that it can be tailored to fit your space!

  5. It is plans like these that makes one look forward to tinkering in the workshop weekends.

    Great stuff
    South Africa

    1. Oh good, I'm glad you like it! let me know if you give it a try, you might be the first! :)

  6. I would love to make this but am worried about how heavy it would be if we have to move. Is it movable??? 😊

    1. It would be heavy for sure. I think your best bet would be to build the top separate from the base and leave the screws accessible so you can remove the top for moving it. That would at least break the weight up a bit. Hope that helps! :)

  7. This is beaUTIful. But I have a solid 4x12. I want too make a simple bar cuz I don't need a big table. But I can't figure out how to attach or make legs for it! It's beaUTIful piece of wood. Can you help please?

    1. I would look at attaching it with Kreg Jig. The jig would allow you to make holes in the legs and attach them from below so you don't put any holes through your beautiful top. :)

  8. How long did this project take you? I have three weeks between packing and moving an entire house, and having 5 house guests at the new house (where our current table doesn't fit the space or 9 people!). Gah!

    1. Oh man, you're going to be busy! I would say the building would take a weekend, but it might be tough to get it done that quickly with moving & unpacking also needing attention. Then it would take a couple more days to finish it with the drying time between coats of paint/sealer. But I would say 5 weeks is definitely do-able, depending on your schedule and what else you're trying to get done in that time! Hope that helps! :)