Thursday, March 12

Nightstands Day 9 - Floating Nightstand with Drawer

Hello and welcome to day nine of our nightstand series! You can see the entire series here. Today's project is our third "floating" installment (we already made floating boxes and a floating bookshelf). With both a shelf and a drawer, this plan offers plenty of storage options in a style that is simple, sleek, and unique!

Floating nightstands are a great way to make your space instantly feel less cluttered. The drawer lets you take it a step farther by stashing any would-be tabletop clutter out of sight! This plan is based on a simple, uncluttered inspiration photo I spotted on Pinterest and is a quick, easy build:

image via pinterest

Shopping List:
1  -  1x12  @  10'
1  -  1x10  @  4'  (or a 2' scrap)
1  -  1x4  @  4' 
1  -  1x6  @  4'  (or a 2' scrap)
9" side-mount drawer slides (full extension is best if possible)
wood filler
wood glue
1 1/4" screws
2" screws
Kreg Jig with 1 1/4" pocket screws (optional)
finishing nails (optional)

Finished dimensions:  26" wide  x  12 3/4" tall  x  11 1/4" deep

Remember to always double check your measurements before you cut. Use 1 1/4" screws unless otherwise indicated. Pre-drill your holes and countersink your screws. Always use glue before you screw the boards together (you don't have to let it dry first), I'm not going to list it in every step, but it's a good idea to glue everything! Be safe, and have fun!

Cut List:
(A)  1  -  1x12  @  24 1/2"   (back)
(B)  2  -  1x12  @  11 1/4""   (sides)
(C)  2  -  1x12  @  26"   (top/bottom)
(D)  1  -  1x10  @  23 1/2"   (drawer bottom)
(E)  2  -  1x4  @  9 1/4"  (drawer sides)
(F)  1  -  1x4  @  22"   (drawer back)
(G)  1  -  1x6  @  24 1/4"   (drawer front)

Start by attaching the sides (B) to the back (A). Keep the edges flush. Use a Kreg Jig (this will hide the holes on the back), or drill through the sides into the back.

Attach the top & bottom (C). Use a Kreg Jig or drill through the top and bottom into the sides and back.

Next build the drawer box. Start by attaching a drawer side (E) along each side of the drawer bottom (D). Keep the outside edges flush, and attach with a Kreg Jig or by drilling through the bottom into the sides. Then slip the drawer back (F) between the sides and attach it in the same way, keeping the outside edge flush. Double check the opening of the nightstand - the drawer box should end up 1" narrower unless your drawer slides require a different allowance.

Follow the instructions on your drawer slides to install the drawer box. The drawer box should be set back 3/4" from the face of the nightstand (so you drawer front ends up flush later) and 1" down from the top.

Set the drawer front over the drawer box and center it with 1/8" gap above and on each side. Use glue and finishing nails to attach the drawer front to the drawer box (you can also reinforce it with a Kreg Jig).

The building is done, now you just have to finish it! Start by filling any holes with wood filler. Let it dry, then sand it smooth (repeat if necessary). Then sand the whole table smooth for a great finished product (a good sanding can be the difference between looking professional vs. crafty). Then finish with any paint or stain and polyurethane you like.

You can add a drawer pull if you like, or to keep the simple look just use the lip under the drawer front as a pull.

We're halfway done, there are still nine more days of DIY nightstands coming up!


  1. This is a great looking nightstand! How do you attach it to the wall though?

    1. Screw it directly to the wall - take the drawer out and drill through the back of the nightstand into the wall, being sure to hit studs. I'd say you need at least 3" screws, depending on the thickness of your drywall.

    2. thank you so much!

  2. Cut measurements are wrong. Cut sides to 11 1/4". Cut drawer front to 24 1/4". I used a kreg jig and had no need for 2 1/2" pocket screws.

    1. So sorry about that! Thank you for commenting, everything should be fixed now.

  3. how much does this cost to make? (lumber and drawer slides)

    1. You'll probably have to order drawer slides to get the right length. These ones are $10 -
      As far as lumber my (very rough) estimate would be around $40, but it's been a while since I've price checked. :)

  4. I'd like to make this without the bottom shelf area. What measurement changes do I need to make? I'm rather inexperienced, I'd hate to mess it up figuring this on my own.

    1. Hi, You would need to make the sides 5.75" tall to fit just the drawer. You'll also need cut the back down to that height as well. Happy building!

  5. Hey love the finish on these. What type of wood/stain did you use on these?

    1. Hi! Unfortunately the picture is an inspiration photo I found on pinterest, so I'm not sure about the finish. The other images are just drawings from Sketchup. Sorry I can't help!

  6. Hello,

    Just wondering what kind of weight these can support? Looking to do a concrete top surface.

    1. Hi, I haven't weight tested it so I can't give you specific limits, but for a floating table the way you attach it to wall will be even more important than the limits of the wood. You don't want it ripping out of the wall! As long as you anchor it securely into studs, I think it would able to support a concrete top that's not too thick. :)

  7. Looks like a great tutorial and relatively easy to build. My only problem is I want to make it a little shorter and need dimensions in cm... Can you help? I want the top/bottom to measure 55 cm across (roughly 21.8 in)...what should all the other cuts be, specifically the drawer?

  8. Looks like a great tutorial and relatively easy to build. My only problem is I want to make it a little shorter and need dimensions in cm... Can you help? I want the top/bottom to measure 55 cm across (roughly 21.8 in)...what should all the other cuts be, specifically the drawer?

    1. nevermind, I've decided to just add a shelf instead of a drawer:)

    2. Glad you figured it out. :) Have fun!