Saturday, May 11

Coffee Table with Drawers (Day 8)

If you're looking for a coffee table to store all the things, this is the plan for you. It's the most storage you'll find in our DIY Coffee Table Series! This traditionally-styled coffee table has two wide drawers. The top drawer is shallow for stashing remotes and decks of cards, while the bottom drawer is deep enough to hold games, toys, or even a couple blankets.

While the front of the coffee table has drawers, the back is simple and uncluttered. Ready to build your own and gain a boatload of storage right at your lounging fingertips? Let's get started!

Measure twice, cut once (seriously, though). Use glue in every step (be careful to clean up any drips, because they can mess up your finish at the end!). Read through all the instructions before you begin. Use 1 1/4"" screws unless otherwise indicated. Pre-drill and countersink all your screws. Be safe, have fun, and let me know if you have any questions! Please note I have not built from these plans myself (you might be the first!), so double check everything as you go.

Shopping List:
1  -  2x2  @  6'  long
1  -  1x3  @ 10'  long
1  -  1x4  @  4'  long
2  -  1x8  @  10'  long
1  -  1x10  @  4'  long
1  -  4' x 4' plywood project panel 3/4" thick
1  -  4' x 4'  plywood project panel 1/4" thick
2  -  sets 18" side-mount drawer slides (I like full extension slides!)
4  -  drawer pulls
1 1/4" wood screws
2" wood screws
finishing nails
Optional: Kreg Jig + 1 1/4" pocket hole screws (alternate Kreg instructions will be in italics)
Wood glue
Wood filler
Sandpaper and finishing supplies

Dimensions: 40 1/4" long x 21 3/4" wide x 16 3/4" tall

Cut List:
(A)  2  -  plywood  @  17 3/4" x 13"  (sides)
(B)  4  -  2x2  @  16"  (legs)
(C)  1  -  plywood  @  36 1/4" x 13"  (back)
(D)  3  -  1x8  @  40 1/4"  (top)
(E)  2  -  1x8  @  18 1/4"  (large drawer sides)
(F)  2  -  1x8  @  33 3/4"  (large drawer back)
(G)  2  -  1x3  @  18 1/4"  (small drawer side)
(H)  2  -  1x3  @  33 3/4"  (small drawer back)
(I)  2  -  thin plywood  @  35 1/4" x 18 1/4"  (drawer bottom)
(J)  1  -  1x4  @  36"  (small drawer front)
(K)  1  -  1x10  @  36"  (large drawer front)

Start by attaching the legs (B) to the sides (A). The sides need to be flush with the top and inside face of the legs. Drill through the legs into the edges of the side boards with 2" wood screws. If you have a Kreg Jig, drill pocket holes along the sides and top of each side board. Use the holes along the sides to attach the legs with 1 1/4" pocket hole screws.

Attach the back board (C) between the back legs. It should be flush with the top and inside face of the legs. Drill through the legs into the edges of the back boards with 2" wood screws. If you have a Kreg Jig, drill pocket holes along the sides and top of the back board. Use the holes along the sides to attach it to the legs with 1 1/4" pocket hole screws.

Install the top boards (D). Line up the top boards side-by-side and center them with a 1/2" overhang all the way around. Make sure the front opening is the same width as the back board (36 1/4"). You can use 1 1/4" screws or finishing nails to attach the boards by drilling (or nailing) into the side and back boards. Nails will leave smaller holes in the top to fill, but screws will give more stability, especially if you lift the table by the top to move it. Choose your weapon and attach those top boards! If you have a Kreg Jig, start by making pocket holes along both sides of the center top board. Use those to attach the top boards on either side with 1 1/4" pocket hole screws to create one solid top. Center the top on the table and attach it using the pocket holes you make along the top of the side and back boards. Make sure you get at least two screws into each end of every board!

Now build the drawer boxes. For the large drawer, attach the drawer sides (E) to the drawer backs (F). Drill through the drawer sides into the ends of the drawer backs with 1 1/4" wood screws. If you have a Kreg Jig, drill pocket holes along both ends of the back boards and use them to attach the drawer sides with 1 1/4" pocket hole screws. 

Build the small drawer box the same way, using drawer sides (G) and drawer back (H).

Attach the drawer bottoms (I) to both drawer boxes. Drill up through the drawer bottoms into all four sides of the drawer boxes. Don't forget the glue!

Follow the instructions on your drawer slides to install both drawer boxes. The boxes should be set back 3/4" from the face of the legs (so your drawer fronts end up flush in the end). Before you install them, hold the drawer fronts up where they'll go and mark the bottom of each drawer front on the legs with a pencil. Then when you install your drawer boxes, make sure neither box overlaps those lines.

Install the top drawer front (J) over the drawer box, centered in the opening with 1/8" gap on both sides and at the top. Attach it with finishing nails and glue. Then you can slide the drawer out and add a few screws for stability by drilling out through the drawer box into the drawer front, being careful not to drill all the way through!

Install the lower drawer front (K) the same way, centered with a 1/8" gap on both sides and between the drawer fronts.

To finish, fill any visible holes with wood filler then sand everything down really well. This is the most important step for a professional finish! Start with a rough sand paper, then go over everything with a medium paper, then again with a fine paper. Once it's super smooth, finish it with whatever paint or stain and sealer you like. Install the drawer pulls and you're done!

I love to see your finished projects! Tag me on instagram or share them on our facebook page!

Want more plans? Check out the rest of the coffee table series here and all our other building plans here!

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