DIY Mid-Century Modern Round Coffee Table (Day 12)

You guys know I love a mid-century modern vibe, so this coffee table makes my heart pitter-patter! Besides looking great, round coffee tables like this one are a great way to add surface area without interrupting the flow of the room. They work well in any layout, but are especially well-suited with a sectional sofa or any other setup that will involve shimmy-ing around the table to reach your seat. The rounded top means more wiggle room where you need it most, fewer bumped shins, and no sharp corners for a toddling baby! Check out our DIY Coffee Table series for more round table options!

Note: This table standard 36" round table top because you can buy one pre-made at many home-improvement stores. Want a different size table? You can buy any size top and adjust the length of the divider boards to fit! You also have the option to cut your own top from plywood.



Measure twice, cut once (seriously, though). Use glue in every step (be careful to clean up any drips, because they can mess up your finish at the end!). Read through all the instructions before you begin. Use 1 1/4"" screws unless otherwise indicated. Pre-drill and countersink all your screws. Be safe, have fun, and let me know if you have any questions! Please note I have not built from these plans myself (you might be the first!), so double check everything as you go.

Shopping List:
2  -  36" round table tops (or you can cut your own from a sheet of 3/4" thick plywood)
1  -  1x6  @  6' long
4  -  8" tapered legs
1 1/4" wood screws
Kreg Jig + 1 1/4" pocket hole screws (optional)

wood glue
wood filler
sandpaper and finishing supplies
optional:3/4" plywood edge banding only if you cut a plywood top

Dimensions: 36" round top  x  ~15" tall

Cut List:
(A)  1  -  1x6  @  32"  (divider)
(B)  2  -  1x6  @  15 5/8"  (wings)
(C)  2  -  36" round tops - either purchased or cut from plywood

Start by attaching the wings (B) to the divider board (A). Make pocket holes along one end of each wing and attach them to the divider board with 1 1/4" pocket hole screws. One wing should be centered on each side (15 5/8" space on either side).  If you don't have a Kreg Jig, offset the wings about 1" on either side of the center and drill through the divider into the end of each wing with 1 1/4" wood screws)

Want to change up the look a bit? Try a different size of board for the divider and wings! Try a 1x4 or 1x8 cut to the listed lengths for a shallower or deeper table.

Now about that top. If you bought a 3' round top, you're ready to go! If you're cutting your own, start by using a small nail or tack to fasten a piece of string to the center of your plywood. Hold a pencil 18" from the nail and use the string as a compass to mark a circle on the board. Use a jig saw to cut out your table top (or check out Ana White's video on cutting a round top with a circular saw).

Drill pocket holes along the top edge of the divider and wings. Center that unit on the bottom of the top board (C) attach it with pocket hole screws. If you don't have a Kreg Jig, just drill down through the top board into the edges of the divider and wings with 1 1/4" wood screws.

Center the bottom board on the table and attach it by drilling through the bottom board into the edges of the divider and wing boards with 1 1/4" wood screws.

Follow the instructions that came with your tapered legs to attach them to the base of the table.

For a standard coffee table height, I recommend 8" tapered legs. But of course you can use any legs you like to change up the look! This table would also be amazing with hairpin legs!

To finish, fill any visible holes with wood filler then sand everything down really well. This is the most important step for a professional finish! Start with a rough sand paper, then go over everything with a medium paper, then again with a fine paper. Once it's super smooth, finish it with whatever paint or stain and sealer you like. Also note that the edges of plywood will not take stain or paint as well. It's a more obvious difference with stain, but even with paint the edges probably won't quite match the rest of the table. If you made a plywood top, you can solve this problem by applying 3/4" plywood edge banding. It's usually an iron-on strip of thin wood that will stain to match the plywood top. Honestly, though, I usually just roll with the regular plywood edge and it doesn't bother me since I expect it. But be warned, if you're a bit of a perfectionist you'll probably want the edge banding.

I love to see your finished projects! Tag me on instagram @more.like.home or share them on our facebook page!

Want more plans? Check out the rest of the coffee table series here and all our other building plans here!