Tuesday, May 21

2x4 Farmhouse Coffee Table (Day 16)

My hands-down favorite thing we've built for our house is our DIY farmhouse dining table. I love the style, I love that it holds up to life with a house full of boys, I love that it's where we all gather daily. So I couldn't round out our DIY Coffee Table Series without paying homage to our favorite! It's a smaller scale opportunity for your family to gather around for games, movies, or pizza night. It's a simple build and it can be made entirely of budget-friendly 2x4s!



Measure twice, cut once (seriously, though). Use glue in every step (be careful to clean up any drips, because they can mess up your finish at the end!). Read through all the instructions before you begin. Use 1 1/4"" screws unless otherwise indicated. Pre-drill and countersink all your screws. Be safe, have fun, and let me know if you have any questions! Please note I have not built from these plans myself (you might be the first!), so double check everything as you go.

Table Base Shopping List:
2  -  2x4  @  8' long
1  -  2x4  @  8' long
2 1/2" wood screws
Kreg Jig + 2 1/2" pocket hole screws 
wood glue
wood filler
sandpaper and finishing supplies

Table Top Shopping List:
2  -  2x4  @  8' long
OR
1  -  2x8  @  8' long


Dimensions:  35 1/2" long  x  21" wide  x  16 1/2" tall

Base Cut List:
(A)  4  -  2x4  @  13 1/2"  (legs)
(B)  2  -  2x4  @  12"  (side stretchers)
(C)  2  -  2x4  @  19"  (top supports)
(D)  1  -  2x4  @  27"  (stretcher)


Top Cut List:
(E)  2  -  2x4  @  21"  (aprons)
(F)  6  -  2x4  @  28 1/2"  (top)
OR
(G)   2  -  2x4  @  21 3/4"  (aprons)
(H)   3  -  2x8  @  28 1/2"  (top)

Start by attaching two legs (A) to each side stretcher (B). The side stretchers should be set up 2" from the bottom of the legs. Make pocket holes along both ends of the stretchers and use the 2 1/2" pocket hole screws to attach the legs.


Set a top board (C) on each leg section. It should be flush with the outside edges of the legs, and centered with 1" overhand on the front and back. Drill down through the support board into the top of the legs with 2 1/2" wood screws.


Connect the two leg sections with with stretcher (D). Drill pocket holes in both ends of the stretcher and use them to attach it with 2 1/2" pocket hole screws. The stretcher should be flush with the top of the side stretchers, and centered with 4 1/4" space on either side (not including the legs!).


Now you can build the top. You can stick with 2x4's, or switch to 2x8's (which I love!) to get a top inspired by our farmhouse table!

For the 2x4 top: Start by laying out your top boards side-by-side (F). Drill pocket holes along both sides of each top board except for the boards that will be at the edges - they only need pocket holes along one side. Also drill pocket holes along both short ends of each top board. Connect the top boards together side-by side with the pocket holes along the sides and 2 1/2" pocket hole screws.

Then attach the aprons (E) using the pocket holes at the ends of each top board. Flip it over so the pocket holes are hidden underneath and center the top on the table base with a 1" overhang at the front and back, and a 1 3/4" overhang on the sides. Drill up through the support boards to attach the table top with 2 1/2" screws.


For the 2x8 top: Start by laying out your top boards side-by-side (H). Drill pocket holes along both sides of the center top board and one side of the outer top boards. Also drill pocket holes along both short ends of each top board. Connect the top boards together side-by side with the pocket holes along the sides and 2 1/2" pocket hole screws.

Then attach the aprons (G) using the pocket holes at the ends of each top board.

Flip the top right-side up so the pocket holes are hidden underneath and center the top on the table base with a 1 3/8" overhang at the front and back, and a 1 3/4" overhang on the sides. Drill up through the support boards to attach the table top with 2 1/2" screws.


To finish, fill any visible holes with wood filler then sand everything down really well. This is the most important step for a professional finish! Start with a rough sand paper, then go over everything with a medium paper, then again with a fine paper. Once it's super smooth, finish it with whatever paint or stain and sealer you like.


I love to see your finished projects! Tag me on instagram @more.like.home or share them on our facebook page!

Want more plans? Check out the rest of the coffee table series here and all our other building plans here!

11 comments:

  1. how is top section attached to leg sections? Just glue?

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Hi! Not just glue, you also need to drill up through the support boards into the bottom of the table top to attach it more securely. Sorry I missed that detail when I wrote the plans, I've added it now. Happy building! :)

      Delete
  2. You may want to add that same new sentence 3 paragraphs up also; when talking about the 2x4 top.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Got it! Thank you for the feedback - it's super helpful!

      Delete
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